When you enter the former police headquarters you have to walk through an opulent white hallway that doubles up as a mini-exhibition showcasing police records and memorabilia preserved in glass boxes, complete with a rogues gallery. It’s housed in one of London’s most famous landmarks, Great Scotland Yard, which is neither in Scotland nor a yard, but has been recently renovated as a luxury hotel, part of the Hyatt collection. His long-awaited and much-hyped UK outpost plans to do the same and relies entirely on wood-fired cooking, with no electricity or gas. Not in a literal caveman sense, but chef Niklas Ekstedt is a big name in Sweden for his signature ‘old Nordic’ analogue cooking techniques at his Michelin-starred restaurant in Stockholm. Men are here! We make fire! Cook meat! That’s the general vibe of the place.
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